admin February 13th, 2009
This post is dedicated to Leora, Kelly W, to Tyson, and to anyone who’s ever overcome trouble at Gatwick border control!! Despite being rejected by the London business community, I loved every bit o my summer there. It took a few seasons to get over the fact that not even Google was willing to overlook my lack of a working Visa (such a small slip of paper, no?) there. But here it is, mellowed down and fact-checked. To that city that’s reinventing itself as fluidly as the price of oil.
The Tube (pron. “tschooooob”). Oyster Card in hand, this is your ticket to discovering all of London. The above ground parts are cool too. You’ll hear anything but English being spoken. Your eyes will open to the diversity, to the street funk, the working class and all other things London.
The Tate Modern. The cavernous monumentality of it. The nod to factory days. How little I felt inside of it. And the members’ tea bar above.


Primrose Hill. Exactly. How. It. Sounds. To appreciate fully, walk through hectic Camden Town up, up, over the bridge, through the corridor of bookshops and cafes where hippie and upper crust weave together. Up to the park, where the hill is dotted with Thames-gazing tetherball players. Lie in the grass and feel, truly, at the center of the universe. Nothing, nothing is better than moments on Primrose Hill.

Hoxton Square. Like walking through a portal into your own private social life (makes sense when you see it). After exiting Angel tube stop, take a 10 minute stroll like hip ants marching to Hoxton Square. Hidden but bustling– 4 walls contain the artsiest people, the best of tapas and small plates restaurants, the most buzzing bars, and the filthiest park you ever did see. The epicenter of London nightlife is only a wrinkle in time away.

Regent’s Park. Where my fiancee proposed. Like a Seurat painting in the summer. Delicate wind. Perfect paddleboating pond where I, for once, could show my rowing prowess, maybe at the expense of ducks. Willow trees. Benches. Herons. Peace. Enveloped in manicured labyrinths. Beats Hyde Park by a mile.

James Street at Picton Place. After finding an engagement ring at Selfridge’s, it was more than a post-engagement glow that lit up these tiny sidestreets. Lined with Lebanese and French streetside restaurants, it’s only blocks from throngs of tourists, but on a summer night, who cares? The ubiquitous awnings, the warm accordian and guitar music– wanted to stay here forever. Meandered through the streets of Marylebone after dinner just loving life.

Islington. If I could live in London again, this would be homebase. Everything about this neighborhood is built for life– the parks, the cafes, the Masala Zone (hello, Thali!), the boutiques, the Space NK. And don’t you know, they had to go plant gorgeous fucia flowers along the slate-lined streets, delightful against the big red buses. Brings an aspirational tear to my eye.

Loungelover + Les Trois Garcons. If a decadence overdose could kill…then this tiny corner of Shoreditch/Bethnal Green would be fatal. Those streets are rough, all right, but going from aperitifs at Loungelover (the bizzarly wonderful assinged seating and taxonomy-rife wall fixtures) to LTG was nothing short of smooth and sexy. For a real crawl, start at Bed Bar off Brick Lane (closest stop Liverpool station) and end at Light.

St. Pancras Station and the Eurostar to Paris. I’ve never felt so inspired and luxuriant riding coach. From glorious station to station without a hiccup, the journey felt like flying from Brighton, through the French courtyside, to Gare du Nord. With novel in hand and my roller at my side, getting to SPS was also a breeze. The Euros have really got trains down to a science…and an art.

St. John’s Wood. My favorite High Street just makes me feel bright and happy!

Song Que. No matter how badly your currency is trading, this is the ultimate cheap eat, flavorful vietnamese near all the hotspots.
My not-favorites: Kilburn tube stop manhandling, Willesden Green internet cafe with sticky keys and overt drug deals involving backpacks, Cankle-hags and slags, and my # 1 NOT favorite that is still a MUST DO:
Chocolate Bar at Harrod’s. You’ve been warned about this Dodi-mecca, and everything you’ve heard it is right. But if you really want a paradign shift, you really want to know how it feels to be poor, go here. Unless you’re wearing a head to toe birkia, you’re not getting servish. Beautiful Polish teens cater, literally hand and foot, to Pasha imitators with huge glasses to hide their hangovers. That’s right, you don’t own oil. And now you know how it feels to want a chocolate milk with a marzipan on the side, and to be seen right through. An epiphany in discrimination.